With labor, parts, and tax, the absolute cheapest wheel set I can build to order will run around $350. Please don’t abuse the form below if you intend on spending less than that. I do keep a few wheel sets I’ve built on hand if you’d like to buy pre-built, pictured below.
More information about wheel building services below the form.
Payment for parts is collected up front, and labor is collected upon pickup. Wheel work free for one season.
$50 – Dished wheel build
(any hub brake front or externally geared rear wheel)
$40 – Zero dish wheel build
(track, or non-disc front wheels)
Why get your wheels built?
First and foremost, your builder can often source hub/rim/color/spoke combinations which are hard to find already machine built and stocked anywhere in town, or even in warehouses you can order from online. This allows you to be creative about your wheels!
Second, it’s just much easier to true and to trust wheels built by someone with a good reputation. You often get a level of customer service not usually afforded to people buying pre-fab wheels because you’re builder is invested in his/her/their work.
And thirdly…pay people to do things…that’s all. Pay people to do the things you need done. Super simple. Send your money to a warehouse full of bots and a handful of human QC personnel where a $90 margin split 90 ways amounts to nothing – or pay a single person $90 for their time and know your dollars meant more there because they live and work where you live and work, and will spend their earnings in the area.
Pay people to do things.
Hand built wheels in stock
Single speed wheel set in black
10/11 speed road Wheel set
A few customs builds
Let’s get the ball rolling
How I build wheels
I really don’t try to reinvent….well…the wheel! I build in the traditional way – with round spokes, J-bends, brass nipples, and spoke prep. I do use brass spoke washers when I think the hub flange is thinner than normal, and build with butted spokes no thinner than 1.8mm, from Sapim and DT Swiss. I stress by hand during the build extensively and gently bend the spokes into their paths in the old ways. Once goal tension is reached I mount a tire for corrections under compression and check the balance one last time with the tire off again.
The ends of the spokes are flush with the tool slot in the nipple head, engaging all of the available thread, the spoke shafts are nicely nestled against the side of the flanges, and the labels are all lined up. This is how I was trained. Beyond that, I try not to micromanage a wheel, but rather to trust the age old design and the properties of the material to do most of the work.
With any wheel I build the first year’s worth of truing, if needed, is on the house. I want to take care of my wheels and my customers, so, do your job and ride because I’ve got your back!